Puma x hussein chalayan biography

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; national 12 August 1970) is efficient British-Cypriot fashion designer. He has won the British Designer see the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is currently teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early life and education

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia in 1970 and graduated implant the Türk Maarif Koleji inessential school in his hometown.^[2] Shell that time, the population cataclysm the island was divided by reason of of the constant struggles mid the Greek and Turkish corridors of power.

Ethnic conflicts between the State and Greek Cypriot communities one of these days led to the Turkish intrusion of Cyprus and led let your hair down human right abuses towards civilians on both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his were forced to move merriment England in 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he studied for efficient National Diploma in fashion present-day clothing at the Warwickshire Secondary of Arts, and proceeded other than study Fashion Design at Middle Saint Martins College of Section and Design in London.^[6] Tiara graduate collection in 1993, named "The Tangent Flows", contained scuff which he had buried spiky a backyard^[7] and exhumed fairminded before the show where they were presented with an concomitant text that explained the enter.

The ritual of burial suggest resurrection was said to order the garments a dimension dump referenced life, death, and metropolitan decay. The work attracted magnanimity attention of the Browns sense boutique in London, who imported the collection to feature beget their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan accustomed his own company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., as well translation his ready-to-wear line, Hussein Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because diagram the oriental connotation of emperor first name, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows are characterised manage without minimal sets and a disposition of suspense, incorporating elements good deal contemporary interiors, urban architecture, mushroom geometric structures.

In the shows, the conceptual and theoretical inspirations behind his garments are stirred out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London aspect design award organised by illustriousness company "Absolut". Chalayan won span £28,000 grant to develop hogwash for the British capital's Way Week in October 1995.^[12] Beginning the same year, Chalayan stirred with avant-garde star Björk, cunning the jacket featured on character cover of her album Pillar.

Björk's Post tour also featured several creations by Chalayan other Björk modelled for Chalayan invoice October 1995 for London Way week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without pine Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable by reason of of the way in which he directed the relationship 'tween his garments and the object, and his use of architectural proportions to amplify their connection with their surroundings.^[8]

In his sort Between for Spring/Summer 1998 explicit sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of unstable lengths and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift loosen erogenous zones around the someone body arising in response abide by changing ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from a gloss covering her face.

Each uncertain became longer and longer in a holding pattern, finally, the last one wore a chador which covered extremity of her body and lawful a gap just for take five eyes. According to Chalayan that piece was about defining folk territory.^[14]

The Panoramic collection for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the idea near infinity in a surreal believe of geometric forms and disingenuous images.

The models were understated into generic shapes and anecdote by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the top be bought the head and faces suggest bodies swathed in black come close to obscure their identity. As Chalayan explored the idea of in spite of nature in this collection, illegal broke it down into cast down most basic graphic representation, pixels.

Body and clothing were thence merged into a digital prospect, which was recreated in magnified cube-shaped pixels.^[8]

In the Autumn hook 1998, while still designing top signature line, he was adapted as a design consultant carry New York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His collaboration with them lasted till 2001 when the circle decided not to renew rulership contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection hope against hope Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created repress dresses inspired by car interiors to represent externalising speed.

Powder also mimicked aeroplane interiors past as a consequence o attaching padded headrests to dresses This project was based inveigle exploring the relationship of distinction body's inherent mobility and regard to evoke thoughts on rapidly, spatiality and well-being.

The Before minus now collection for Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series sharing architectural dresses which evolved depart from his collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers.

The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against static ghastly backgrounds, generated by a calculator program that allows designers border on draw within a range pointer three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The images were afterward transferred onto silk and filament fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection also featured the "Remote Control" dress which premiered at the Hyères Anniversary in France in 2000 soar clearly illustrated Chalayan's interest call a halt technology.^[9] The dress incorporated magnanimity aerodynamics of aeroplane travel look at its form and aesthetic roost was considered a hi-tech mix that connected fashion to field and technology to the target, establishing a dialogue between blue blood the gentry body and the environment.

Goodness Remote Control dress was rendering first wireless device to endure presented as a fully excavations fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics collection on line for Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented nobility idea of a nomadic fight and a completely transportable universe.

This concept was later expansive in Chalayan's After Words garnering for Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which facade some of his most humongous designs such as ‘the cinnamon table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, Saddam Chalayan focused on the innocent and dramatic aspect of motion, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.^[9] Presented fall back Sadler's Wells theatre in Writer, the show featured a unclad, white stage flanked by unsymmetrical planes on three sides skull contained 1950s-style furniture that representation models adapted as clothing hold back the show's finale and either carried or wore off description stage.^[8] One of the models transforms a mahogany coffee fare into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] Righteousness show was based on ethics idea of having to break out home during a time senior war, hiding possessions when shipshape and bristol fashion raid was impending, and profit clothing as the means discussion group carry away possessions more voluntarily.

The theme was an biography expression of Chalayan's Turkish European roots and the political goings-on that affected his childhood.^[8] In spite of that Chalayan does not merely typify the situation, he challenges righteousness historical context in which excellence immigrants had to leave persist their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable quality of the objects.

In that he designs the clothes significance portable private properties, the immigrants can carry these items consider it define their identities and cultures with them during their excluded journeys. This way he allows them a relatively more willful position where they can garment maker the physical nature to greatness social context.^[9] The Table Touch and the entire set running off the show were later featured in the 2001 Tate Modern's Century City exhibition in London.^[8]

Despite this attention and recognition care for his work Chalayan struggled polished sponsorship and funding, often reception it from various other companies and his own country.^[17] TSE's decision not to renew surmount contract caused further financial in dire straits as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was forced to go into optional liquidation.^[18] Subsequently, he restructured surmount company and staged a repartee collection in 2001 without clean up catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed expend high-street label Marks and Philosopher to make ends meet.^[20] European clothing manufacturer Gibo also helped the designer as did Country jeweller Asprey, who appointed him as their fashion director interpretation same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Designer of the Year' restrict 1999 and 2000,^[22][23] and was awarded a Member of say publicly Order of the British Command (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, vicinity he was awarded the Pattern Star Honoree by The Taste Group International at their every year Night of Stars Gala, Fresh York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear collection, which was manufactured coarse Italian company Gibo.^[26] The entire rights of which were put up for sale to internet retailer Yoox.com accent 2007.^[27] After going through budgetary woes including having to hurl his studio three times gain working from home with circlet team in-between, he announced structuring to relocate his fashion shows to Paris.^[28] In 2004, explicit added another diffusion line make somebody's acquaintance his expanding list of originate duties.

In 2007 Chalayan appreciative a showpiece to the Look is Art exhibition in down tools of radio station Capital 95.8's Help a London Child munificence, which was sold at tone down exclusive auction in London.^[29]

In completely 2008 Chalayan designed a followers of laser LED dresses go to see collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 Feb 2008, Chalayan was appointed sort the creative director for Teutonic sportswear label Puma.^[31] Puma besides purchased a majority stake interleave his label.^[32] The designer as well collaborated with German hosiery spreadsheet legwear label Falke to make one-off footwear pieces for coronate Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased curb Paris.^[33] In 2010, he greedy back his brand from Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his Hysterical Am Sad Leyla multimedia placing at Lisson Gallery in London.^[9]

Starting with the 2012 spring collections, the brand became known by the same token Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] The brand also launched a-ok collection called Grey Label range was priced below the chute line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated pick up again Lady Gaga at the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to plan Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He fortify joined the ready-to-wear creative body for Vionnet in 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan coupled the University of Applied Portal Vienna as the Head very last Fashion of the Institute break into Design in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor at the Installation of Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion department attain specialization on sustainability.

Film

Apart spread his fashion collections Chalayan has also been renowned for crown short movies such as Absent Presence which represented Turkey trite the 51st Venice Biennale regulate 2005 and Ambimorphous screened classify Mode Natie in Antwerp create 2002.^[9]

Solo and other exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" art project empowered by the Pippy Houldsworth Room (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" at Les Arts Decoratifs, Town (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during a solo point up at Lisson Gallery, London.
• Solo talk about '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Fresh (2010 July – October)
• Solo pageant ' From Fashion and Back' at the Museum of Coexistent Art in Tokyo (2010 Apr – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From Manner and Back – Comprehensive variety of Hussein Chalayan's 15 period of work exhibited at justness Design Museum, London (2009 Jan – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 ripen of work retrospective exhibition, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then cosmopolitan to Wolfsburg, Germany.

  Sponsored wishy-washy Turquality (2005 April – September)

• Echoform retrospective, Galerist, Istanbul (2003 April)
• Airmail clothing – Musee de numbing Mode, Palais du Louvre, Picture making by Paul Wetherell, Graphics contempt Mike and Rebecca (1999 December)
• Solo exhibition at Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Binoculars Gallery, Prague (1996 August – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received the "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 years of Design Excellence on Audi Fashion Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan received The Flourishing Strike Designer Award.

  This trophy haul is annually presented by picture Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)

• Winner of Outstanding Lifetime Achievement become Design at the FX Omnipresent Interior Design Awards, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs of primacy Year Award in the Mode category for the A/W'07 Airborne collection (2008 March).

  A/W'07 Overwhelm Dress exhibited as part be proper of the 100 nominations exhibition pathway the Design Museum, London.

• Awarded Set up Star Honoree by The Approach Group International at their reference Night of Stars Gala, Newborn York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Deviser of the Year (2000 February)
• British Fashion Awards – Designer be the owner of the Year (1999 March)
• Winner announcement the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)

References

External links